Δείτε συγκεντρωμένες όλες τις τάσεις τα σχέδια τα υλικά και τα χρώματα που παρουσιάστηκαν φέτος για τη σεζόν 2014-15 στις πασαρέλες του Μιλάνου του Λονδίνου και της Νέας Υόρκης:
MILAN
CUT PROPORTIONS
Now that fur/fabric combinations are the norm, we are seeing more cut up proportions come into play adding a new graphic sensibility to the trend. Fox snippets were added to a mesh and wool dress at Fendi while at Cividini and Francesco Scognamiglio, a paneled tee and corseted coat look had a modern appeal. Dimensional contrasts at Antonio Marras and Salvatore Ferragamo added a luxe touch to an evening coat and moto jacket style, while at Angelo Marani, a full fox lapel created an interesting textural look for a 3/4 sleeve coat silhouette.
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FENDI
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CIVIDINI
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FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO
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ANTONIO MARRAS
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
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ANGELO MARANI
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A TEXTURAL MIX
A huge trend from the Milan runway shows was for bold textural mixes that used contrasting colour rather than the more tonal looks of past season. Salvatore Ferragamo worked a metallic astrakhan with natural fur to create a dress/coat look, Kristina Ti added a multi-fox hood to a textural knit and print ensemble and Massimo Rebecchi played with curly and plush fur handles to create a quirky coat silhouette. Marni and Krizia mixed fur with feathers for an off beat cape look and rounded chubby while at Fendi, a diagonally pieced bolero mixed and matched fur textures for a patterned appeal.
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
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KRISTINA TI
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MASSIMO REBECCHI
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MARNI
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KRIZIA
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FENDI
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CAPED LOOKS
As in New York, caped silhouettes made a strong statement at the Milan shows with Blugirl and Dsquared 2 opting for more vintage-inspired looks in animal printed fur and cream mink. At Fendi and Dolce Gabbana, an asymmetrical fur trimmed neoprene silhouette and floral appliquéd metallic two-piece style pushed conventional boundaries for a more directional allure. At Marni, a horizontally tri-coloured cape look had an almost felted feel while Sportmax added elongated shoulder definition to a leopard spot printed style for a modern retro appeal.
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BLUGIRL
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DSQUARED 2
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FENDI
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DOLCE GABBANA
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MARNI
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SPORTMAX
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BOLD PATTERN
Bold colour and pattern has been a strong trend throughout the collections so far and in Milan, a large number of designers were tapped into this statement style. We saw geometric pattern work at Angelo Marani, horizontal and vertical striping at Blugirl and Marni, while a fox print dress at Au Jour Le Jour in bright purple and white demonstrated a more whimsical side to the trend. Prada used sheepskin to create a standout trim signature on bold printed outerwear styling while at Roberto Cavalli, linear abstract piecework in black, red and white was worked into a knee-length chubby for an edgy patterned appeal.
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ANGELO MARANI
BLUGIRL
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AU JOUR LE JOUR
MARNI |
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| PRADA |
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| ROBERTO CAVALLI |
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DRESSED UP PARKA LOOKS
The parka has been a key silhouette for the past few season but what looked new for next winter was a more tailored, dressed up approach that updated traditionally casual styling. Emilio Pucci went for a sleeveless gilet-inspired version with fur trim detail while at Max Mara and Fendi, coating weights replaced performance fabrics for a tailored update on the look. Also at Fendi, a velvety sheared fur with splattered bleach effect created a soft feminine feel, while at Alberta Ferreti and Ports 1961, satin parkas with plush fur trim merge day into night for a ladylike dressed up appeal.
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EMILIO PUCCI
MAX MARA
FENDI
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THE FUR CHUBBY
The fur chubby is a classic silhouette that has a timeless appeal and in Milan it was out in full force, showcasing the gorgeous luxurious nature of fur. Etro added an ethnic touch to a cropped style with geometric trim detail, Costume National kept things clean and simple with a minimal white chubby worn over a streamlined mini dress, while at Emilio Pucci, voluminous fox was given a patterned hem, spotted body and contrasting collar for a more decorative feel. Roberto Cavalli and Sportmax relied on the natural texture of fur to make an impact for collared versions of the silhouette while at Fendi, a statement front zip added an edginess to tonal pieced fox for a thoroughly modern appeal.
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ETRO
COSTUME NATIONAL
EMILIO PUCCI
ROBERTO CAVALLI
FENDI
SPORTMAX |
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ANIMAL PRINTED FURS
Animal printed furs continued as a strong direction in Milan with designers like Dsquared 2 and Sportmax summoning the past for vintage ladylike looks in classic leopard spots while others like Trussardi opted for a more modern update in a sporty zebra jacket/skirt ensemble. Chicca Lualdi for Beequeen went for a menswear inspired look with tailored gabardine collar and lapel, while at Ermanno Scervino, a simple shell top looked clean and contemporary and at Gucci, a DB coat with swing hem had a 60s retro appeal.
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SIXTIES INFLUENCES
At the Milan shows, retro influences continued on from this season with the 1960s becoming a key inspiration for silhouette direction. A long Mongolian lamb trimmed cardigan has a Go Go girl feel at Laura Biagiotti while at Dsquared and Fendi, a cropped swing coat in sleek grey mink and short sleeved bolero in plush sheared fur have a classic vintage appeal. A simple edge-to-edge coat is given a groovy pattern detail in tonal mink at Angelo Marani while at Gucci, dyed raccoon is worked into a shrunken peacoat silhouette and Dolce Gabbana uses fur to adorn a neat little suit ensemble with appliquéd flower power for a sophisticated update on 60s dressing.
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LAURA BIAGIOTTI
DSQUARED 2
FENDI
ANGELO MARANI
GUCCI
DOLCE GABBANA |
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PLUSH TOP LOOKS
In London we saw fur worked into sporty pullover silhouettes for next winter but in Milan, a much plusher sophisticated sensibility has emerged from the collections. Dense shearling and luxurious mink shell tops are added to eveningwear looks at Anteprima and Aquilano Rimondi, while at Kristina Ti, plush fur is layered over a floral printed chiffon blouse and patterned skirt for a modern bohemian feel. Velvety sheared fur handles at Dolce Gabbana and Fendi are worked into a decorative jumper style with 3/4 balloon sleeves and a punched fur tank layered over a mock neck knit with fox shoulder detail at Fendi. At Trussardi, a plucked fur in saturated pale grey works with a honeycomb knit and leather skirt for a rich sophisticated appeal.
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BOHEMIAN BRIGHTS
As we have seen throughout the collections, dyed fur is a huge trend for next winter but what looked new in Milan was an artful palette of bohemian brights that were worked together through colour blocking or fur placement to create a sense of artistic expression. Kristina Ti and Marni used fox stoles in saturated colour to create horizontal lines while at Tods, a pop of ultraviolet blue offsets an all-mauve grey look and at Marco De Vincenzo and Massimo Rebecchi, fur placement works with print & pattern to create decorative bohemian looks. The contrast of off beat brights and earth tones has a particularly sophisticated feel at Prada, where an artist’s eye for colour transforms an oversized sheepskin silhouette that layers over an silky eveningwear style in rich ochre for a masculine/feminine appeal.
KRISTINA TI
MARNI
TODS
MARCO DE VINCENZO
PRADA
MASSIMO REBECCHI
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LONDON
VIVID BRIGHTS
The strongest trend by far to emerge from the London catwalk shows was for vivid bright colour, used as a solid or worked with other bold brights to create a multi-coloured effect. Osman and Preen went for a single standout tone with an electric blue edge-to-edge calf length coat and neon orange collarless DB jacket, while at Paul Smith and Marques Almeida, bright red furs were worked into a high necked gilet style and raw-edged cape. Roksanda Ilincic opted for a multi-coloured patchwork look in mixed furs while at Matthew Williamson, an ultraviolet fox was tip dyed in vibrant red for a psychedelic two-tone effect on a 3/4 chubby silhouette.
TEDDY BEAR FURS
Soft plush fur handles, reminiscent of teddy bears or other stuffed animals, made a statement on the London runways and created a sense of nostalgia for the tenderness and comfort of childhood. Pringle worked a pale grey knitted fur into a cozy yet modern cardigan style while at Daks and Burberry, soft-touch furs in teddy bear tones were used for sweet little cropped jackets. Longer 3/4 silhouettes at Orla Kiely and Simone Rocha were worked into fluffy fur handles in jet black, while at Whistles, a boyfriend look was updated in plucked fur for a warm comfy cocooning appeal.
THE MODERN GILET
The fur gilet has made a comeback for next winter as we started to see in New York and now following suit in London. What feels new this time round are menswear-inspired looks like Margaret Howell, sporty bomber styles as seen at Jonathan Saunders and the layering fur gilets over tailoring silhouettes at Paul Smith. A longer length DB style at Preen was hemmed with a coat weight for a modern appeal while at Christopher Raeburn, a caped shoulder topping a nylon quilted sleeve created a faux gilet outerwear look that offered a luxe sport feel.
THE EDGE-TO-EDGE COAT
The simple easy-on edge-to-edge coat is a key item for next winter and on the London runways, it came in every variant conceivable. Eudon Choi opted for a full-on fur look in gunmetal grey curly lamb, while at Matthew Williamson and Christopher Kane, the fur chubby was cropped in optic white with embellished trim and worked into a mid-calf length style with contrasting nylon cuff detail. Pringle used graphic black & white for a streamlined knitted fur look, Tom Ford went for a bold clash of colour with large-scale animal print groovework, while at Osman, an update on vintage saw astrakhan worked into a slightly flared knee-length style with 3/4 sleeve.
CURLY LAMB
The textural appeal of curly lamb made an impact at the London shows, with designers shaping and shifting it into a myriad of possibilities. Eudon Choi and House of Holland used Mongolian lamb as a luxe accessory touch for casualwear in pewter grey and dimensional hem detail for a black-on-black dress look. A leather edged knee-length chubby at Tom Ford and shiny nylon lined parka look at Christopher Kane offered a modern urban appeal, while at Burberry and Erdem, shorter-haired handles were pieced with an Aztec geometric coating weight and given an appliquéd touch for a more patterned feel.
SPORTY PULLOVERS
As we saw for this season, the fur pullover has become a key item for both men and women. What prevailed in London for next winter, was a more sporty update that gave casual looks a modern luxe appeal. A V-neck style at Tom Ford and asymmetrical zip cowl at Simongao offered an edgier feel while a two-tone plucked fur and black-on-black combo at Christopher Raeburn stuck with a more traditional sportswear look. At Bora Aksu, a classic raglan silhouette was reinvented with neat balloon fur sleeves and Peter Pan collar while Thomas Tait added a striped mock neck collar to a longer haired pullover for a sleek glossy allure.
PATTERNED FUR
Along with vivid brights, another fearless trend to emerge from the London catwalks was for bold patterned looks in full fur. KTZ kept things graphic with a contrasting black & white ensemble, while a multi-coloured floral DB jacket and mixed fur patchwork coat made a statement at Huishan Zhang and Roksanda Ilincic. At Burberry and Preen, more abstract pieced patterns were worked into a long lean silhouette and an updated knee-length DB look in sheared furs. Tom Ford used groove work to create an oversized animal print on a two-tone chubby for a high-octane, high-glam appeal.
TWO-PIECE FUR LOOKS
The trend for fur separates started to emerge at last year’s shows but what looks new for next winter is the pairing of fur tops and bottoms to create two-piece looks. A matching animal printed ensemble and jacket/skirt style at Tom Ford have a modern vintage feel, while at Simone Rocha, retro DB two-piece styling is worked into ponyskin and sheared fur in black-on-black. Cropped proportions give twin set dressing a modern edge at Bora Aksu and David Koma with matching top/skirt looks in glossy fur handles for a sleek ladylike appeal.
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NEW YORK
ABSTRACT MIX
Totally in sync with our Atelier trend for next winter, one of the strongest stories to emerge from the New York collections was for artistic expression through line and form. Here, designers use off beat combinations of fur, fabric and colour mixing to create abstract silhouettes and styling. Phillip Lim takes a modernist approach with sheared fur and leather while at Thom Browne and Carolina Herrera, contrasting fabrics are colour blocked with fur for an artistic appeal. Son Jung Wan and J Crew use bold tri-coloured diagonal striping for a more graphic look while at Jason Wu, the contrasting texture of fur is used in unusual placement along with statement zipper detail for an expressive update on the biker jacket.
FROSTED PALES
Colour made a big comeback for next winter with an almost anything goes philosophy in keeping with the expressive nature of the season. One of the strongest directions however, is a glacial palette of frosted pales and tinted neutrals… especially when worked opposite shadow darks. Here, Mathieu Mirano opted for a smoky mauve fox stole, BGBG went for an icy lilac collarless moto jacket style and Son Jung Wan added a multi-coloured fox collar to a swing bottom coat silhouette. At Marc Jacobs and Sally Lapointe, barely-there pastels created tone-on-tone styling while at DKNY, tonal pale pinks added a layered look to a minimal edge-to-edge coat shape.
THE AVIATOR
A new trend to emerge at the New York collections was for the re-invention of the classic aviator jacket. As a move on from the bomber style from this season, next winter saw the use of contrasting seamwork and exaggerated proportions breathe new life into this quintessential silhouette. Brandon Sun and Rebecca Taylor updated the look with a form fitting cut and feminine palette, while at Alexander Wang, a sporty neoprene/shearling mix in ultraviolet blue added a modern twist. Marc Jacobs and Altuzarra played up proportions in full-on fur while at Bibhu Mohapatra, a cheeky mix of textured fur handles created definition for a boxy, more tailored body shape.
MODERN HEMLINE
Fur hemlines, along with the fur cuff, made a strong statement at the New York runway collections adding texture and dimension to otherwise clean and minimal silhouettes. Josie Natori opted for both on a simple edge-to-edge coat shape, Victoria Beckham added a furry twist to a minimal dress in white-on-white, while at BCBG and Reed Krakoff, we saw long lean looks play with tonal matte/shine in fur and fabric combinations. Contrasting white fur in horizontal panels made an interesting hem statement at Adeam, while at DKNY, it was curly lamb in black-on-black that added dimension to a 3/4 DB peacoat.
PLACEMENT STATEMENT
We saw fur placement start to emerge as a trend last season, adding to the infinite number of possibilities for fur/fabric design direction. What looks new for next winter, is the use of fur placement to make an unexpected dimensional or shape shifting statement. Thom Browne and Katya Zol used unusual placement and pattern work to express an abstract sense of form, while at Adeam and Tory Burch, fur hem panels and pocket detailing added an offbeat sensibility to ladylike looks. Sally Lapointe and Vera Wang used the contrast of longer-haired furs in large panel blocks with fabric to make a dark and decadent graphic statement.
FELTS & FUR
Clean flat-faced felted wools are an important fabric direction for next winter and when worked with fur, they offer a luxurious modern appeal. Wes Gordon and Tess Giberson trimmed tailored aviator styles with plush fur for a sophisticated sporty look, while at BCBG and Jason Wu, the motorcycle jacket was given a contemporary update in fur/fabric combinations with leather trim detail. Rebecca Taylor worked felted wool into a biker gilet style with fur collar while at Carolina Herrera, a vintage-inspired edge-to-edge coat silhouette was pieced with fur to create a tonal drop shoulder look.
MULTI-COLOURED BRIGHTS
Artistic expression through the use of colour is an all-important trend for next winter and in New York, we saw designers pushing the boundaries with a mad mix of multi-coloured furs making a bold statement. Custo Barcelona went for an abstract print look on a cropped jacket silhouette, Pabal Gurung feathered fox in several colours to create a striped effect and J Crew opted for a scarf look in multi-coloured horizontal fur panels. Altuzarra and Libertine created bold bright graphics on simple collarless tunic and coat styles and at J Mendel, multi-coloured diagonal stripes in sheared fur were off set by a face-framing indigo blue fox collar.
TEAL BLUES & GREENS
In New York, the strongest tonal colour story was for teal blues and greens in an update to the ultaviolets of previous seasons. At Son Jung Wan, short fur sleeves offset a degrade herringbone dress weight and vintage-inspired silhouettes at Dennis Basso and Anna Sui were recoloured in teal blue and green for a whimsical appeal. Jason Wu used fur placement to create a drop-shoulder effect on a zip-front satin style, while at J Mendel, a sheared fur coat was given a quirky edge with contrasting collar, leather facing and bright yellow belt detail.
CHEVRON STRIPES
One of the strongest textural trends for fur on the New York runways was for chevron and diagonal striping. Interestingly, we saw the technique applied to knitwear in multi-coloured combinations at both Custo Barcelona and J Mendel, while at Azede Jean Pierre, the look was more subtle in a herringbone effect. Hervé Légere used feathered fox worked into chevron stripes for a caped coat silhouette, while at Peter Som and Kaufman Franco, the technique was used to create an allover pattern effect on sheared fur.
CAPED LOOKS
And finally, New York’s love affair with the caped shoulder from this season has morphed into full on caped looks for next winter. The most directional silhouette had to be the hybrid caped coat style that graced the catwalk in several shows. While designers like Adeam and Bidhu Mohapatra stayed closer to the original ideal with a hooded and belted version in cropped proportions, J Mendel and Hervé Légere used voluminous fox to create dramatic caped coat silhouettes for a modern glamour appeal. At Thom Browne, a theatrical large-scale print effect added a decorative touch to a button-up style, while Vera Wang opted for a sleek ponyskin tiered shell top to create a sense of dark romance.
MENSWEAR
REBEL YELL
Our love affair with the biker jacket seems to have no end in sight as it was by far the most shown jacket silhouette at the recent menswear collections. Sheepskin was a popular choice with designers like Alexander McQueen, Costume National and Burberry all giving a modern take on this punk rock classic, while at Juun J and Emporio Armani, we saw a leaner, more streamlined approach in sleek flat and sheared furs. Balmain took a walk on the wild side with a leopard print ponyskin update that added a sense of playful irony to the trend.
KNIT & FUR COMBINATIONS
Knit & fur combinations are a strong trend for next winter adding an über tactile sense of luxury to clean contemporary menswear styling. Sheepskin adds a plush touch to a textural cardigan at Missoni, while at Bottega Veneta and Corneliani, classics like the moto jacket and zip-front blouson are given a luxurious soft-touch appeal. Paneled knitted fur with stud detail creates an armoured tunic look at Dolce Gabbana, while at Louis Vuitton and Fendi, contrasting ribbed and fur knits add a modern textural appeal to classic V-Neck and Turtleneck jumpers.
MIXED FURS
The mixing of fur types made a strong statement at the menswear collections with designers like Burberry and Valentino opting for subtle colour blocking while Astrid Andersen used tonal greys and black to create a bold graphic look. Roberto Cavalli used pieced and patchworked furs for a textural glam rock style, while at Dolce Gabbana and Fendi, contrasting long and short-haired fur handles created a play on proportion and texture.
THE FUR PARKA
A continuing trend from last season, the fur parka gets an edgy overhaul in sleek sheepskin lined leathers and sport-meets-chic full furs. Balmain and Christian Dior paired glossy black leather with sheepskin linings for a hard-edged appeal, while at Andrea Pompilio, rabbit fur lines an oversized parka for a more youthful feel. Designer Juun J opts for a vintage 70s look in full fur, while at Costume Nationale and Dirk Bikkemberg, sporty zip-front parkas work with clean contemporary styling for an über luxe urban appeal.
SHORT & BOXY
Short & boxy jacket silhouettes were another prominent theme at the collections, with classically squared off shoulderlines sometimes being updated by a more rounded edge to create a blouson-meets-boxy look. Curly lamb adds dimension and texture to a cropped tailored jacket at Cerruti, while at Burberry and Christian Dior, a classic shearling car coat and sheepskin aviator are given a modern appeal. A short tailored DB style in full fur is given a rounded shoulderline at Versace, while at Fendi and Valentino, the emphasis is on contrasting fur/fabric and mixed fur textures.
THE FUR PULLOVER
The fur pullover has emerged as a key item for next winter in the separates category and has become a viable alternative to its knitwear counterpart. Contrasting textures were half the story with a fur/knit mix at Lanvin, a lamb gilet effect at Corneliani and a sporty raglan sleeve look at Iceberg. Elsewhere, the full fur pullover took centre stage with Versace opting for a dramatic medieval print on sheepskin, while at Ports 1961 and Louis Vuitton, plush sheared furs were worked into clean simple jumper silhouettes for a thoroughly modern appeal.
URBAN SHEARLINGS & SHEEPSKINS
Shearlings and sheepskins permeated the menswear catwalks for next winter but what looked particularly new was an edgy urban undertone that saw raw deconstructed finishes come to the fore. An easy edge-to-edge jacket with contrasting collar at Y Project and simple high-neck tunic at Cedric Jacquemyn took a minimalistic approach, while a classic DB coat shape in optic white was left raw-edged for juxtaposition at John Varvatos. Deconstructed looks at both No Editions and Cedric Jacquemyn offered an edgy urban appeal, while at Alexander McQueen, a minimal full-length sheepskin coat made a dark and dramatic statement.
PRINT & PATTERN
Print and pattern looks made a statement at the menswear shows, ranging from a subtle check print at Daks to a dramatic medieval printed shearling tunic at Dolce Gabbana. Pattern placement was used for a luxe sport look at Astrid Andersen in London while in Paris and Milan, we saw the art of patterned piecework steal the show. An abstract deconstructed tunic at No Editions offered an edgy take on the trend, while Fendi went for a whimsical “Little Monsters” inspired look on the front of a zip-front jacket and Valentino channeled the Aztecs with an all-over pattern on a classic 3/4 coat style.
THE BOMBER UPDATED
The bomber jacket was a key style last season and it continues to move forward for next winter in a leaner more streamlined incarnation. Hybrid sporty looks at Hermès and Les Hommes are a cross between a flight jacket and baseball jacket with leather raglan sleeves contrasted by a super soft sheared fur body. At Phillipp Plein, the full fur bomber gets a quilted update in a saturated smoke grey, while at Fendi, textured lamb is worked into a lean tailored look. A more rounded silhouette at Costume National pairs longer-haired fur with a performance tailoring weight and leather trim, while sleek ponyskin works with a quilted nylon at James Long for a futuristic feel.
APRÈS SKI
Sporty après ski looks in a cool palette of taupe greys, creamy whites, electric blue and classic navy gave slope inspired furs and trims a fresh slant for next winter. Geometric graphics gave a two-tone fur jumper a modern edge at Dirk Bikkemberg and fur neck scarves added a touch of luxe to fun winter knits at Sibling and Emporio Armani. A classic parka with fur trim in tonal neutrals looks clean and modern at Hackett, as does a navy-on-navy lamb/knit turtleneck layered under a nylon ski jacket. Alpine inspired, Christopher Raeburn opts for a full fur blouson with contrast ribbing for a more classic take on the trend.
FULL GLORY
Not since the 70s has there been such a plethora of full fur coats from the menswear collections so it seems only fitting that the strongest looks took their cue from that decade. A full-on glam rock look at Prada was a favourite and sure to appear in the style bibles for next winter and in close second, the metallic treated fur coat from Yves Saint Laurent appearing in the last show of the collections. We saw more classic 70s styling for an ink blue overcoat at Daniele Alessandrini and 3/4 peacoat in two-tone fur at Gucci, while both Christian Dior and Fendi went for dramatic long-haired furs in a full-length and 3/4 style, using rich saturation of colour for maximum impact.
WAREFUR
